Written by Isa Belle

In my last article you can read about the cross on the Hum, the hill dominating Mostar.  Although being a topic for argument, it’s one of my favorite places.  Not because it is a cross–I think it’s ugly indeed–but because the space gives me a little bit of nature while being in a big city, and more so offers stunning view of the hills and mountains surround Mostar.

I have been at the cross four times, and each time is as memorable as the last. The walk takes about one to two hours, depending on where you start, but believe me, it’s worth the sweat! The trip to the cross first leads you to a traffic road, so watch out for cars as Balkan drivers are notorious. Every new step unveils Mostar and the mountains hidden behind the hills. In winter and spring these mountains are covered with a layer of snow, which is a really beautiful sight. Halfway to the cross, you have to change the road for a path especially made for walkers to the cross. This is obvious given all the smaller wooden crosses along your way up to the big one. At the spot where you leave the road there is a place where you can overview the valley behind the hill, south of Mostar where it’s airport is. It is really nice to see the other side as well and you can clearly see differences in the landscape north and south of you.

Once you have reached the top (you’ll know when you are close when you see a big cross looming in front of you), you’ll have this incredible view which you have already felt when climbing the hill. You can see a lot of Mostar: the smooth hills, the steep mountains, the green blue Neretva flowing through the city, smooth hills, the steep mountains, the concrete flats on the Croat side and the mosques on the Bosniak side.  I don’t dare to describe anything more and hope you can imagine the beauty of the landscape.  However, you understand it only when you hike there yourself.

The only thing you cannot see is the old bridge hidden behind the edge of the hill.  To see it, continue walking past the cross.  The path will branches off at some point, and you’ll a few scattered huts where snipers operated during the war.  Take the road turning left, and eventually you will see the old bridge.  If you have time, take a minute or two to stop and look at the huts surrounded by graves of Croat soldiers.  However, please be extra careful as there might be mines near the huts.  Though the war has finished more than a decade ago, clearing mines still needs time.

How to get to the cross
First take the road leading to Citluk, Medugorje and Ljubuski. You can get there in different ways, just ask a random Croat from Mostar for the direction to the cross, and they will definitely help you get started. The most interesting way for me is passing Zrinsjki fan club bar (Zrinsjki is the Croat football team of Mostar) and over a graveyard.

I recommend hiking shoes, or at least good shoe, water especially in summer as it’s hot in Mostar.  Sun block is necessary because there is not much shadow along the way up.