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<channel>
	<title>Bosnia Blog</title>
	<link>http://www.beyondsarajevo.com</link>
	<description>...about travel and culture experience in sarajevo and beyond...</description>
	<pubDate>Fri, 27 Aug 2010 10:07:45 +0000</pubDate>
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		<title>My Sarajevo Landlady</title>
		<link>http://www.beyondsarajevo.com/2010/08/27/my-sarajevo-landlady/</link>
		<comments>http://www.beyondsarajevo.com/2010/08/27/my-sarajevo-landlady/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 27 Aug 2010 07:22:04 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>cd</dc:creator>
		
		<category><![CDATA[Dialogue]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.beyondsarajevo.com/2010/08/27/my-sarajevo-landlady/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Written by a former teacher in Sarajevo
She was an old woman, seventy-five years old, she told me, holding up seven fingers and then five. The day I moved into the flat in the building her family owned, she came up the steps the first day with some homemade sirnica, cheese pie. Every week or so [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><i>Written by a former teacher in Sarajevo</i></p>
<p>She was an old woman, seventy-five years old, she told me, holding up seven fingers and then five. The day I moved into the flat in the building her family owned, she came up the steps the first day with some homemade sirnica, cheese pie. Every week or so she would come up the stairs slowly, bearing some kind of food. If I ever knocked on her door, she would invite me in for coffee and warm up some food for me.</p>
<p>She told me that she did this because her mother had died when she was young. She knew what it was like not to have a mother around to care for me. When Bajram arrived, the holiday when people feast for multiple days, she made it up the stairs with a full tray of baklava. Such a big tray I don&#8217;t know how it even fit in her oven! I was in a hurry, and she said something with a number. I assumed she was trying to explain that Bajram was a three- or four-day holiday. I thanked her and took the tray, saying it was too much for me. I had a half-size refrigerator I couldn&#8217;t fit all the balklava in there even when I redistributed it into a Tupperware container.</p>
<p>Later that day, I went down when her daughter-in-law was there. She was the only one who spoke English so I tried to explain in greater detail. Maybe there had been a mistake? Maybe she had meant for me to take four pieces? I couldn&#8217;t imagine why she would bring the whole tray up the stairs when she only wanted me to take four pieces, but I just couldn&#8217;t believe it was all for me. No, said the daughter-in-law, it was for me and I should bring it to work. It was difficult even to transport it on the tram there was so much, and even after bringing it to work, I had baklava to last me well into the next month.</p>
<p>A few months later the end of my time in Bosnia arrived. My mother had taught me how to crochet on a trip to the US, so I decided to make a scarf for her. When I presented her with it, she said she hoped she had not done anything wrong to make me leave.  I tried to reassure her as much as I could in my broken Bosnian: it had nothing to do with her! In fact she&#8217;d made my stay all the more pleasant. She told me she had wanted to come up more often, and someone had even suggested she get me to teach her English. Obviously these things had nothing to do with my leaving.</p>
<p>An hour before I left for the bus station, she came up to give me a small wrapped package.  Inside were two pairs of nylons. One for me and one for my mother.</p>
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		<item>
		<title>Yugoslavia Documentary Compilation Available From A Million Movies a Minute</title>
		<link>http://www.beyondsarajevo.com/2010/08/23/yugoslavia-documentary-compilation-available-from-a-million-movies-a-minute/</link>
		<comments>http://www.beyondsarajevo.com/2010/08/23/yugoslavia-documentary-compilation-available-from-a-million-movies-a-minute/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 23 Aug 2010 16:04:46 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>cd</dc:creator>
		
		<category><![CDATA[Music &amp; Film]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.beyondsarajevo.com/2010/08/24/yugoslavia-documentary-compilation-available-from-a-million-movies-a-minute/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[PORTLAND, Oregon: A Million Movies a Minute, an independent distributor specializing in short documentaries, has announced the release of AFTER THE WAR: LIFE POST-YUGOSLAVIA. This 150-minute compilation includes films by 5 film-makers from the former Yugoslavia, the Netherlands, Peru and the United States. These 9 films represent a broad spectrum of contemporary documentary film-making.The recent [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>PORTLAND, Oregon: A Million Movies a Minute, an independent distributor specializing in short documentaries, has announced the release of<em> AFTER THE WAR: LIFE POST-YUGOSLAVIA</em>. This 150-minute compilation includes films by 5 film-makers from the former Yugoslavia, the Netherlands, Peru and the United States. These 9 films represent a broad spectrum of contemporary documentary film-making.The recent apprehension of Serbian war criminal Radovan Karadzic has brought the Bosnian war back into the international spotlight. But these films also depict universal experiences of war that have tragic resonance on the current world stage.Rather than a polemical examination of the governmental and military situations that caused the civil war, these films represent the human costs by providing a ground-level view of life in a country ravaged by war, cultural divisions, and its difficult road to reconciliation.</p>
<ul>
<li>Corinne van Egeraat&#8217;s <i>Cowboys in Kosovo</i> uses compassion and humor to show how four men who grew up together feel about the &#8220;cowboy games&#8221; they played as children after living through war.</li>
<li>Jasmila Zbanic&#8217;s (winner of the 2006 Golden Bear top prize at Berlin Film Festival)<i>Images from the Corner</i>and<i>Red Rubber Boots</i>examines the long-lasting impact of loss and exploitive media coverage.</li>
<li>Roberto Forns-Broggi&#8217;s<i>House of Wisdom</i>, drawing strong influence from the French new wave travelogue films, depicts the loss of cultural Sarajevo&#8217;s cultural artifacts after immense looting.</li>
<li>Zelimir Gvardiol&#8217;s<i>Ravens</i>&nbsp;is the story of a family deeply divided over a medal of bravery posthumously awarded to their son who died in Milosevic&#8217;s army;<i>It&#8217;s Only Mine</i>uncovers the struggle middle class Serbs are grappling with to regain their property that was seized by the Communist police;<i>I Don&#8217;t Know Where, Or When, Or How</i>illustrates how the shortages of food and resources during wartime first impact the vulnerable elderly population;<i>Father, Son, Holy Ghost<br /></i></li>
</ul>
<p><em></p>
<p>Their films have screened at hundreds of festivals and been honored with numerous prestigious awards, full list available at:<a href="http://millionmoviesaminute.com/YugoFests.html" target="_blank">http://millionmoviesaminute.<wbr/>com/YugoFests.html</a></p>
<p>A Million Movies a Minute was founded on the belief that short documentaries have the agility and brevity to tell powerful, intimate stories that speak to an increasingly fast-paced, media-hungry audience. Other releases from A Million Movie a Minute include<i>Animating Reality</i>, a collection of animated documentaries on a variety of subjects and themes and <i>Radical Act</i>, a cultural history of the contribution of female artists to the 1990s indie rock music scene.</p>
<p>Available now on DVD:<a href="http://www.buyolympia.com/q/Item=afterthewar" target="_blank">http://www.buyolympia.com/q/<wbr/>Item=afterthewar</a></p>
<p>And for rent or sale on Amazon VOD:<br /><a href="http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&amp;field-keywords=after+the+war+life+post+yugoslavia&amp;x=0&amp;y=0" target="_blank">http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=<wbr/>nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%<wbr/>3Daps&amp;fieldkeywords=after+the+war+life+post+yugoslavia&amp;<wbr/>x=0&amp;y=0</a></p>
<p>Trailer at:<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jdggm-cw39c" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/watch?<wbr/>v=jdggm-cw39c</a></p>
<p>For press requests contact:<a href="mailto:press@millionmoviesaminute.com" target="_blank">press@millionmoviesaminute.com</a></em>
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		<title>How Many Schools Can You Fit Under One Roof?</title>
		<link>http://www.beyondsarajevo.com/2010/08/14/how-many-schools-can-you-fit-under-one-roof/</link>
		<comments>http://www.beyondsarajevo.com/2010/08/14/how-many-schools-can-you-fit-under-one-roof/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 14 Aug 2010 17:28:18 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>cd</dc:creator>
		
		<category><![CDATA[Dialogue]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.beyondsarajevo.com/2010/08/14/how-many-schools-can-you-fit-under-one-roof/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[By ISA BELLE
Bosnia and Herzegovina must certainly be the world-champion in fitting several schools under one roof. A common phenomenon in this country is the so-called ‘two schools under one roof’ which means that there are two different ethnic groups enrolling in different school curriculum in the same building.&#160; One group usually starts early in [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><strong>By ISA BELLE</strong></p>
<p>Bosnia and Herzegovina must certainly be the world-champion in fitting several schools under one roof. A common phenomenon in this country is the so-called ‘two schools under one roof’ which means that there are two different ethnic groups enrolling in different school curriculum in the same building.&nbsp; One group usually starts early in the morning until noon and the other begins right after until dinner time.</p>
<p>The gymnasium in Mostar is a good example of this. The school is the home of two different curricula for the Bosnian Croats and the Bosniaks. All three major ethnic groups in Bosnia have their own curricula, with a lot of emphasis on the difference of history, religions and languages.  Everybody will agree that a good educational system is crucial to the long-term development of a country. Bosnia needs it more than most, especially the country is eager to join the EU. The current school system of separation has done nothing but slows down this process and deepens the divisions within the country. </p>
<p>On February 10<sup>th</sup>, young students from all over Bosnia attended a conference in Mostar to discuss the separation of school curriculum. I participated in this conference even though I personally have no experience with the Bosnian educational system. I acted as a moderator for a group of students of different elasticities who currently study the different curricula. The discussion was an interesting and enriching experience. I’ve learned that the necessary reforms in Bosnia obviously will not happen from a top-down approach. Demanding and putting some pressure on the authorities from below might have a better effect. Even if the desired result is not attainable, it is always useful to discuss existing problems and to make young people become more aware of the backwardness of their school system.<br />
All the students agreed that the separated curriculum does not bring anything good for both the students and the country.&nbsp; Lessons and books do not represent issues from different perspectives but from just one perspective of your own ethnicity which praises your ethnicity is the only good one and how you should keep up the traditions and be proud to belong to this ethnicity. Clearly, this shows how segregation is being encouraged inside the classrooms in Bosnia. They love to get more objective information from varied and broad perspectives rather than subjective and one-sided information presented in textbooks. Facts should be presented as facts, and different interpretations are of course welcomed to develop critical thinking. However, it is of major importance that facts are not twisted to ‘benefits’ one’s own ethnicity. &nbsp;In addition, the students have far too many subjects, even up to 25 and they all feel that quantity is often valued over quality. There are also controversial topics such as politics and religion which should not be involved in education. More details can be found in the final declaration made on this special day. </p>
<p>There was an interesting story told by a girl whose brother applied to the University of Sarajevo. In order to get in, he has to do a test, but because the system is corrupted and racist, the majority of the people who get accepted have already known beforehand the test. They prepared for the test, and even when they failed the test, they still got in because the test results are not published, thus no-one knows how the others performed. So even though the brother had one of the best scores for the entrance exam, he did not get in to the university. Getting into university is apparently not about your own capacity but about your ethnicity or the money you possess. Another girl in the conference has an older sister who wanted to study Croatian literature at a university in Mostar, but first she had to pass a very biased Croatian history test before she was allowed to start her study.&nbsp; This test was mainly about history of religion, of course only of Catholicism. Furthermore, she had to learn about wars and battles in which Croats were involved, always portraying the Croats as either heroes or victims of other ethnicity. What is the point of all this when you want to study Croatian literature?</p>
<p>During this conference, opinions and wishes of the students are recorded in a declaration which will be presented to the official of the country in hope of long-overdue reforms and improvements of the educational system.[<a href="http://www.beyondsarajevo.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/declaration.doc" title="Declaration">Link</a>]</p>
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		<title>One Day On Earth Media Project Wants Bosnian Citizens (10/10/2010)</title>
		<link>http://www.beyondsarajevo.com/2010/08/05/one-day-on-earth-media-project-wants-bosnian-citizens-10102010/</link>
		<comments>http://www.beyondsarajevo.com/2010/08/05/one-day-on-earth-media-project-wants-bosnian-citizens-10102010/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 05 Aug 2010 11:38:49 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>cd</dc:creator>
		
		<category><![CDATA[Dialogue]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[Music &amp; Film]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.beyondsarajevo.com/2010/08/05/one-day-on-earth-media-project-wants-bosnian-citizens-10102010/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[From my mailbox&#8212;-
I am contacting Beyond Sarajevo on behalf of a global media event that I am helping to produce. One Day On Earth is an online community of filmmakers, students, and inspired individuals all teaming up to film in every country in the world during the 24-hour period on 10/10/2010, to create a more [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>From my mailbox<br />&#8212;-</p>
<p>I am contacting Beyond Sarajevo on behalf of a global media event that I am helping to produce. One Day On Earth is an online community of filmmakers, students, and inspired individuals all teaming up to film in every country in the world during the 24-hour period on 10/10/2010, to create a more accurate picture of life on this planet. We are looking to have every nation in the world participate,&nbsp;and hope to include the unique voice of Bosnia and Herzegovina in our global mosaic.I am contacting Beyond Sarajevo in the hopes of being connected to interested and inspired&nbsp;Bosnia and Herzegovina&nbsp;citizens who would be interested in participating in One Day On Earth. We would love for you to take a look at and possibly sign up for our project. Please let me know the appropriate channel to take so that I might initiate a conversation with other&nbsp;Bosnia and Herzegovina citizens who would be interested in taking part in our project.</p>
<p> Thousands of people from every nation around the world will film their perspective and contribute their voice to the largest participatory media event in history. The event will result in a feature documentary and online video archive that will showcase the diversity, conflict, tragedy, and triumph that can occur in one day on earth.</p>
<p>Please learn more and view our trailer on our website:&nbsp; <a href="http://www.onedayonearth.org/" target="_blank">www.onedayonearth.org</a></p>
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		<title>The Old Town of Mostar</title>
		<link>http://www.beyondsarajevo.com/2010/07/14/the-old-town-of-mostar/</link>
		<comments>http://www.beyondsarajevo.com/2010/07/14/the-old-town-of-mostar/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 14 Jul 2010 05:00:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>cd</dc:creator>
		
		<category><![CDATA[Herzegovina]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[Travel &amp; Tourism]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.beyondsarajevo.com/2010/07/14/the-old-town-of-mostar/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[By ISA BELLEThe Old Town, or Stari Most as the locals say, is the pride of Mostar. It has been inscribed on the UNESCO world heritage list in 2005. The showpiece is the famous Old Bridge (Stari Most), built by the Ottomans in the 15th century and characterized by cobblestones, truly a beautiful place. The [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><b>By ISA BELLE<br /></b><br />The Old Town, or Stari Most as the locals say, is the pride of Mostar. It has been inscribed on the UNESCO world heritage list in 2005. The showpiece is the famous Old Bridge (Stari Most), built by the Ottomans in the 15th century and characterized by cobblestones, truly a beautiful place. The bridge, however, is not as old as you may suspect.  It was destroyed during the Bosnian war and has been rebuilt since and opened just in 2004.</p>
<p>During the summer the old quarter is hot and over-crowded by tourists from all over the planet, most of whom are packed on buses from Croatian coastal cities like Split and Dubrovnik. You can forget about walking at your own speed as your pace is dictated by everyone else, many of whom are the elderly who have no intention to rush. So there you are, under the relentless summer heat, leisurely “stroll” (having no other choice) while looking into every open souvenir shop, and gosh they are all open and sell the exact same things.</p>
<p>It is in the winter that the Old Town slowly reveals its secret.  Those souvenir shops which entertain your eyes in the summer are now closed. There is hardly anyone around including the elderly who walk in front of you at the speed of one meter per hour.  This is the time when I love the Old Town the most. Who wouldn’t if you have the entire place for yourself. I can absorb every little detail and stand there as long as I want without being walked over.  The sky is grey and gloomy, but when fog rises up from the river, the surrounding is simply magical. Snow rarely falls in Mostar, but once it does, it completes the image of a fairy-tale landscape.</p>
<p>Regardless of the season, summer, winter or all year round, the Old Town of Mostar oozes magic and patiently awaits tourist crowds from the Dalmatia or quietly watches a lone creature embracing the whole area for herself.</p>
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		<title>A day in the life of a student in Mostar</title>
		<link>http://www.beyondsarajevo.com/2010/06/29/a-day-in-the-life-of-a-student-in-mostar/</link>
		<comments>http://www.beyondsarajevo.com/2010/06/29/a-day-in-the-life-of-a-student-in-mostar/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 29 Jun 2010 13:22:49 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>cd</dc:creator>
		
		<category><![CDATA[Herzegovina]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[Culture &amp; Society]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.beyondsarajevo.com/2010/06/29/a-day-in-the-life-of-a-student-in-mostar/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[By ISA BELLE I was abruptly woken up by the alarm clock. My head was heavy, and I could not properly open my eyes or get out of the bed. Why should I anyway when the bed was so warm? But you know what? It was not even my alarm clock. Shit! I could have slept [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><strong>By ISA BELLE</strong><strong> </strong><br/>I was abruptly woken up by the alarm clock. My head was heavy, and I could not properly open my eyes or get out of the bed. Why should I anyway when the bed was so warm? But you know what? It was not even my alarm clock. Shit! I could have slept for at least half an hour more.Situations like these await you every day living in a three-person dormitory room.  But who complains? There are some sacrifices you have to accept when you want to experience the adventure of finishing your high school abroad, sharing a tiny territory with two incredibly interesting roommates from the United States and Russia in an incredibly interesting town called Mostar.I am wide awake now, and it doesn’t make a lot of sense to stay any longer in bed when a new day full of exciting activities is waiting for me. I get up from my bed, greet ‘good morning’ to my roommates and look out of the window from the 2nd floor to hail all the churches and mosques of Mostar.  I get dressed, shove books into the backpack, step out of the house and off I go to school.<img src="http://www.beyondsarajevo.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/06/school.jpg" width="286" height="286" style="max-width: 800px; float: left; margin-top: 10px; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-right: 10px" /></p>
<p><br/>The short 7 minute walk is full of interesting encounters.Leading from my house is a very narrow street dotted with beautiful, colourful old houses and maneuvering competition among cars and pedestrians. On the pavement, a rare sight on Mostar streets, there is always an old woman, covered in headscarf, begging on her knees.  A little further down on the bridge over the deep-blue river Neretva, I often see a man playing accordion. The beautiful music cracks a smile on my face; I am so ready to start my day. Wait not yet, not without the breakfast. I enter a small and cosy bakery, one of many you find everywhere in Mostar, to buy some rolls for breakfast.  Eventually I arrive on the square of my school building, freshly painted in orange, where I stop to enjoy my little moment alone and gather my thoughts before being surrounded by people for the rest of the day.I make my way through a bunch of other students, greet the guard and rush up to the top floor for my first class.Depending on how interesting the classes are, the morning goes by lightning fast or sluggishly slow. Between breaks, I frequent the common room looking out over Mostar, checking my email, talking to friends or doing some homework.</p>
<p><br/>Lunch starts at 12 sharp in the school canteen, located in a different building which requires a short walk to get there.  Lunch in Bosnia is the main meal of the day, and usually served hot, contrary to what I am used to in the Netherlands where we only eat sandwich for lunch. There is a lot of noise and chaos in the canteen: students talking, screaming, laughing and the sound of the cutlery on plates.  After racking up pounds by the waistline (I mean having lunch), I squeeze in on one of the tables to join whichever conversation going on.  Sometimes I cannot ignore the screaming inner desire for some different food than what we are served every week. Why not? This isn’t a hospital you know.  I make my way to the Pancake Bar of Mostar to indulge myself some more to sweetness or saltiness of Bosnian pancakes. I often spent the rest of my lunch break in the park when the weather is nice, getting tanned or continuing the discussions started at lunch with my friends. Then school continues for a few more hours and after that I walk home with friends, sometimes stop at one of many coffee bars on the way, enduring the smoke inside just to have a deliciously strong espresso.</p>
<p><br/>My life isn’t always that relaxing as I usually have a lot of homework and projects, so I either bury myself behind my desk or sit outside on the balcony studying and working. Dinner is served in the residential hall. There are many nationalities which mean there are many interesting dishes to be tried out, thus we often cook for ourselves, trying to keep our diet as varied as possible.  Eating a bowl of rice with Chinese sauce or any other national dish with many people from all over the world whom I call friends makes me realize how special and unique my situation is. We talk, discuss, sing, comfort and support each other, and I feel I have another family here while my family is far away! After food, we treat ourselves to a movie group date in a romantic setting using top-of-the-art technology. Yah only if you call put-together dorm beds is romantic and projector is top notch technology.  I will never forget the faces of people who popping in while I was bonding with eight other girls watching The Sound of Music’ and singing very loudly and cheerfully all the songs from the film. Sometimes, we go out for a drink in the city where the nightlife has just started. I have to admit that I often feel a little under-dressed compared to all these fancy-dressed local females.After a long and tiring day, I return to my room, put on my pajamas, brush my teeth, read a few pages from a book, bid my roommates ‘Laku Noc/Good night’ and hope that I am the one who has set her alarm clock the earliest tomorrow morning…</p>
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		<title>Belgrade - A Conclusion - Part 4</title>
		<link>http://www.beyondsarajevo.com/2010/06/03/belgrade-a-conclusion-part-4/</link>
		<comments>http://www.beyondsarajevo.com/2010/06/03/belgrade-a-conclusion-part-4/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 03 Jun 2010 18:39:44 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>cd</dc:creator>
		
		<category><![CDATA[Culture &amp; Society]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.beyondsarajevo.com/2010/06/03/belgrade-a-conclusion-part-4/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I never cut my hair while traveling, but I did so in Belgrade. Why? Maybe so I could be in a closed environment with Serbs? Psychologically, you cannot say anything bad about the person who tries to make you pretty. I sat five meters across from Jelena&#8217;s former boss who had returned to work after [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I never cut my hair while traveling, but I did so in Belgrade. Why? Maybe so I could be in a closed environment with Serbs? Psychologically, you cannot say anything bad about the person who tries to make you pretty. I sat five meters across from Jelena&#8217;s former boss who had returned to work after recovering from an apparently terminal illness only to find she was now reporting to a former subordinate who was less qualified. Now she looked forward to her early retirement.While walking about the city, Jelena mentioned an invitation from a cousin whom she had not seen in a long time and wondered if I would not mind going there with her so she could spend time with both of us. I didn’t want to appear over-zealous but secretly I wished Jelena would take the cousin up on the offer and take me there with her right then. To tell the truth I was eager to meet a real Serb, to sit in her house rather than trying to decipher random Serbs passing me by on the street.Jelena’s cousins kept asking me if they could fetch me juice or quick snacks. Their hospitality and friendliness didn’t surprise me because it was similar in Bosnia. Despite the horrible things they inflicted on each other, they are pretty much the same.Jelena relentlessly pushed, “Do that song!” After a few “no I can’t and no I won’t,” under the quizzing eyes of strangers I conjured up my strength to produce a wave of low noise out of my throat. &#8220;Lane moje oh vidah nah. Vise eh tuje. Kada te pomyslim.&#8221;This icebreaker has shamelessly worked every single time for me whenever I’m in contact with Serbs. Like many Eastern Europeans, Serbs are dead serious about Eurovision, and certainly very proud of their culture. Bring up the talented Zeljko Joksimovic, singer/song-writer/musician and his 2nd placed Eurovision song “Lane Moje” and you are guaranteed to charm a lot of Serbs.The word “Serbia” familiarized itself to me the very instant Marko turned on this song in a hot tiny dorm room in Gliwice. Though the laptop’s crappy speaker produced mediocre sound, I was immediately taken by the enchanting, melancholic melodies. Every now and then when I listened to this song when living in Bosnia, I thought to myself: “how can people who create such beautiful music be capable of such things?”I was a little bit nervous when Jelena told her cousins that I was from Sarajevo. Over the years, I’ve learned to hide details that might connect me to the Bosnians when first meeting with Serbs whom I don’t know. One night last year on the way home in Strasnice, I heard Serbian/Croatian/Bosnian language and stopped a group of tourists to inquire about their origins. They were very happy when I greeted them in their own language and sang a bit of their national pride “Molitva.” When you run out of topic to talk to people, maybe just sing.We giggled the whole way until one of them asked me, &#8220;How did you learn Serbian?&#8221;"Oh,” I unknowingly replied, “I lived in Sarajevo.&#8221;Then I could feel the subtle change in their looks and the smiles they passed from one to another. &#8220;So the Muslims there are friendly right?&#8221;"Yes they are.&#8221;"They USED to be friendly,&#8221; one person sarcastically asked and answered her question while her friends laughed.Since then “I lived in Sarajevo” is replaced with “I have Croatian friends.”Occasionally I ate cevapi at a Bosnian restaurant in Zizkov and always wanted to strike a conversation with the people who worked there. The problem is I have yet to figure out if they are Serbs or Bosnians. So for every juicy bite of the grilled cevapi and a slurp of salty yogurt is a stealthy slant at the apathetic woman drawing her cigarette and I wonder if I should ask for milk. (The only way I can tell a Serbian from a Bosnian is how they say ‘milk’. The Serbs say a quick, strong ‘mleko’ while the Bosnians (Croats and Bosniaks) say ‘mlijeko’ with a distinct stretching ‘i’ sound.)When you generalize the causes of your negative emotion, the negativity tends to be bigger than it seems. Up to then I had lumped Serbs together as one single source of evilness, as cold-blooded murderers and loony nationalists, thus the pictures I had of them were less then pretty. But I have since seen them as separate individuals, heck some even are my friends. I have realized that they are also normal people and tremendously affected by the mess they caused.The hostel-owner-cum-shepherd Ladimir, lethargically blew smoke from his cigarette while explaining to me how he and Serbs lived only day by day, the philosophy which Jelena also shares.“This is small fry,” he shrugged when I asked if the current global crisis affected Serbia. “We had worse,” he rolled his eyes. “It was hard in the 2000s, then before that during the war with Kosovo, and before that [the Bosnian war] and before that&#8230;”Other than Ladimir, others whom I met were women, thus in a way I could easily identify and sympathize with them. They face the same problem like women in my society: a stay-at-home law student who takes care of her small child and ponders her professional outlook; a divorced survivor from a terminal illness wastes away the rest of her professional years waiting for an early escape; a young grad student who finds she no longer fits in her country. And there are countless nameless Serbs who sell on the street, lean idly by the windows because there is nothing else to do or dwell in the garbage ghetto.You and I and Americans draft list after list of plans to control and handle the unexpected as well as the expected events of our lives. After all we control our destiny no? For us, it’s easier without the invisible hands which keep sabotaging our every move, shattering our hope and breaking our dream as it did in the ‘Balkan’. Who knows, maybe having no ‘life’ plan actually makes a bit more sense?</p>
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		<title>Belgrade - A Conclusion - Part 3</title>
		<link>http://www.beyondsarajevo.com/2010/04/26/belgrade-a-conclusion-part-3/</link>
		<comments>http://www.beyondsarajevo.com/2010/04/26/belgrade-a-conclusion-part-3/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 26 Apr 2010 13:00:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>cd</dc:creator>
		
		<category><![CDATA[Culture &amp; Society]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.beyondsarajevo.com/2010/04/26/belgrade-a-conclusion-part-3/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Belgrade is the ugliest city&#8230;I arrived in Belgrade with no map and plan, so I left it up to this Serbian friend whom I met accidentally in Andorra. How many people travel to Andorra for just one day and rush back for their flights on the next day? How many of them end up staying [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><strong>Belgrade is the ugliest city&#8230;</strong>I arrived in Belgrade with no map and plan, so I left it up to this Serbian friend whom I met accidentally in Andorra. How many people travel to Andorra for just one day and rush back for their flights on the next day? How many of them end up staying with the same host? How many will return to Spain on the same bus? How many will then flight at the same airport? How many will flight on the same morning requiring an overnight sleeping on the same bench? And how many are the exact people you are trying to meet? That was how I met Jelena. Meeting random people on the road also makes me realize that there is a &#8216;crazier&#8217; and &#8216;flakier&#8217; version of me and that I am after all normal. I can not retrace the route Jelena and I took anymore because I aimlessly followed her from one boulevard to another while listening to her narration about the city, its history, her life and of course Serbia. Our fist stop was the buildings and radio station bombed by NATO in 1999. They are burned, destroyed and left ruined as a live museum to remind people not to forget. It was only then I fully understoodMarko&#8217;s contempt toward Americans. Five years ago in restaurant in Wroclaw, Poland, we sat next to a group of Polish soldiers. Marco pointed at them and smirked. &#8220;See how smug they are in that military uniform? Argg! These Americans.&#8221;Another Marko, a Croatian, explained to me that my country bombed his. But why does it have to do with the Poles? Only much later when living in Prague and following the high-profiled rocket-and-radar fiasco concocted by America, Poland and Czech that I learned about one of America&#8217;s staunchest European ally, Poland.There isn&#8217;t war if there is no casualty. There isn&#8217;t casualty if there isn&#8217;t any proven dead body. During the month NATO bombed Belgrade, life went on as usual as only military buildings were targeted. People flocked to the street to cheer, to dance and to point the middle finger up to the sky and shout &#8220;come here, bring it on!&#8217;&#8221; Ladimir, my hostel attendance from Novi Sad recalled those days. In April 23rd, 1999 people went to their usual night shift at Radio-Television of Serbia until the building blew up. Families of 16 victims built a granite headstone with the word &#8216;Zasto&#8217; (meaning &#8216;why&#8217;) above the names of those who were killed. Why did TV station belong in a hit list? But even more so, the ex TV boss Dragoljub Milanovic was alleged to deliberately send his employees to work that day knowing they might die, to ensure the propaganda against NATO and solidify the conviction the world is against Serbia, and we are the victims.We walked for half a day before taking a break at a chic hair salon for me to get a haircut with a short bang. We moved on to a restaurant where Jelena ordered a big fat plate of 500g juicy cevapcici, a special grilled minced meat, served in many places in the world but only best in Bosnia and Serbia. Like the Bosnians from Sarajevo, she won the argument and the public mini &#8216;fight&#8217; as why she should pay for the meal. I felt like a big sinner letting a vegetarian pay for my meat. With my new Serbo hairs and a stomach full, I walked through the city center of Belgrade to get to Kalemegdan fortress, looking over the Sava river. I used to drink Turkish coffee almost every evening with the cleaning ladies at the school where I worked in Sarajevo. They did not understand me at all, and I understood them very little but they invited me for coffee and talk every day. When I said that I would like to go to Belgrade, Suja complained how small the dried-up Miljaka, the river flows through Sarajevo, was. &#8220;But the Sava is very huge. She made a gesture with her hands to describe its grandeur. I could not detect any sign of malign from her voice and eyes. And Belgrade is beautiful. As I was standing on the top of the Kalemegdan, I remembered Suja&#8217;s comments and tried to feel and see what it was that brought up the twinkling in the eyes of a 50-year old. This city is awful, and the river isn&#8217;t so great. But my perception of Sava is from a passing tourist who sees the river is nothing more than a large volume of water flowing from one place to another. But Suja, Fatima and the other ladies saw Sava in a different light; it runs through the capital of their former country, the mighty Yugoslavia. It represents their past glory days. Especially when the present is not worth looking forward to, the past maybe is all they have.  But I got a surprise though. No one told me that here from this exact spot I would see the Sava ended and blended in with the Danube, running its course along the Serbia-Romania border, crossing into Bulgaria before emptying itself into the Black Sea. Only then, I understood what Le Corbusier wanted to say.&#8221;Belgrade is the ugliest city on the most beautiful place in the world.&#8221;..tbc&#8230;</p>
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		<title>All Comrades United - Partisan Memorial Cemetery in Mostar</title>
		<link>http://www.beyondsarajevo.com/2010/04/20/all-comrades-united-partisan-memorial-cemetery-in-mostar/</link>
		<comments>http://www.beyondsarajevo.com/2010/04/20/all-comrades-united-partisan-memorial-cemetery-in-mostar/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 20 Apr 2010 03:00:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>cd</dc:creator>
		
		<category><![CDATA[Herzegovina]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.beyondsarajevo.com/2010/04/20/all-comrades-united-partisan-memorial-cemetery-in-mostar/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[By ISA BELLEPartisans or Yugoslav partisans were a communist-led resistance movement during the Second World War who fought both the Axis of power in Yugoslavia and their collaborators. Thanks to them, Yugoslavia was the only country in Eastern Europe not liberated by outside forces but by its own people. This led to a lot of [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><img src="http://www.beyondsarajevo.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/mostar-partisan.ceme.jpg" width="298" height="198" style="max-width: 800px; float: right; margin-top: 10px; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: 10px" /><strong>By ISA BELLE</strong>Partisans or Yugoslav partisans were a communist-led resistance movement during the Second World War who fought both the Axis of power in Yugoslavia and their collaborators. Thanks to them, Yugoslavia was the only country in Eastern Europe not liberated by outside forces but by its own people. This led to a lot of praises for these heroes and massive support for the communists after the war. Because of the overwhelming support for former partisans, their leader, Josip Broz Tito, abandoned other political parties in Yugoslavia as he deemed it unnecessary. Yugoslavia received a &#8217;special status&#8217; during the Cold War due to the fact that they had liberated themselves.  Even though a communist country, Yugoslavia was not a member of the Warsaw pact and gained the freedom to choose its own direction instead of being subjected to the influence of the Soviet Union and Stalin. During communism, the Yugoslavians had a lot more freedom than their Eastern European neighbors and could freely travel around. Furthermore, Yugoslavia did not take sides during the Cold War and remained neutral and inactive during the non-alignment movement.Currently, in Bosnia, the partisans are still heroes to many people, and played an important part in liberating Mostar. Because of this, a memorial cemetery has been dedicated to these partisans who died defending their city. It is a typically socialist memorial, which is very majestic and big, with white-stone terraces. Every partisan has his own white stone with his name carved in curly letters next to the years of his birth and death. The short journey to the memorial is very impressive as you follow an avenue-like pathway and walk past a pond. The architecture of this place is the brainchild of architecture Bogdan Bogdanovic. It has very special designs with unusual shapes and small surprises such as a fountain on the highest level of the cemetery. When it was working in the past, the water from the fountain would stream over different levels of the cemetery all the way down into the pond. In addition, there is a corridor on the sides of the memorial, and on several spots along this corridor there are empty chambers in various shapes, waiting for kids to come and play hide and seek. The unique architecture of this site is hard to describe, and I recommend a visit if you have the opportunity.During the Bosnian War, the memorial unfortunately lost much of its former glory and dignity and turned into a junkyard forgotten by everybody. Gravestones have been broken or removed, and the stones which used to be white are now closer to black than white. Measures have been taken since the war to clean the memorial and reopen it for visitors. There are still fences around it though, and one still has to enter through an opening in the fence. Instead of being a place for remembrance and retrospection, this site has become a popular drinking location for young people, indicated by beer bottles and cans strewn everywhere.Nonetheless, the cemetery still means a lot for Mostarians regardless of their ethnicity. My hope for the future is that this once majestic memorial will be restored to its original beauty just as Bosnia and Herzegovina is making steps towards a brighter future.
<p style="margin-top: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px">[<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/75095242@N00/2191456518" style="color: #551a8b" title="image" id="sww8">image</a>]</p>
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		<title>Run Forrest Run!</title>
		<link>http://www.beyondsarajevo.com/2010/04/12/run-forest-run/</link>
		<comments>http://www.beyondsarajevo.com/2010/04/12/run-forest-run/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 12 Apr 2010 21:00:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>cd</dc:creator>
		
		<category><![CDATA[Herzegovina]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.beyondsarajevo.com/2010/04/13/run-forest-run/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[By ISA BELLE
A student&#8217;s life is not the most active, thus I like to go for a run once or twice a week. Running keeps me fit and makes me feel healthier and stronger, but most of all after the exercise I feel an incredible surge of energy. Running gives me the opportunity to empty [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><strong>By</strong> <strong>ISA BELLE</strong></p>
<p><img style="max-width: 800px; float: left; margin-top: 10px; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-right: 10px;" src="http://www.beyondsarajevo.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/girlrun.jpg" height="271" width="271" />A student&#8217;s life is not the most active, thus I like to go for a run once or twice a week. Running keeps me fit and makes me feel healthier and stronger, but most of all after the exercise I feel an incredible surge of energy. Running gives me the opportunity to empty my mind and to listen to the rhythm of my steps and the beating of my heart.</p>
<p>If you have ever watched the movie <em>Forrest Gump</em>, you probably remember the scene when Forrest was told to &#8220;Run Forrest, run!&#8221;   Since the movie, you can hear people using this phrase at a person or alternatively use the person&#8217;s name if this person is familiar to you. Everywhere, runners have always attracted some kind of attention from people around them, but never have I felt so much in the spotlight as I was running in the town of Mostar.  </p>
<p>Lately I have started running around Mostar, the town I currently live. There are no big parks or special places fit for running, so I simply run on the streets. This means not only crossing many dangerous crossroads but also drawing a lot of attention from people on the streets since there are virtually no other people running in Mostar except to catch the bus in time. People here play a lot of sports but are restricted to sport fields or sport halls. Reactions of Mostar&#8217;s inhabitants to this &#8216;unusual behavior&#8217; of running on the streets include screaming, cheering, clapping, bowing and much more. On the one hand, I feel like I&#8217;m in a zoo, but on the other hand, I have never felt so supported. </p>
<p>There are a couple of reasons behind the differences in attitudes towards running in public. People in Bosnia, especially females, are very image conscious and don&#8217;t want to draw too much attention when they look exhausted and sweaty; how one looks is very important in this society. Everybody talks to everybody, and in no time the whole town will know that you were running. Additionally, I don&#8217;t think Bosnians are that much aware about health issues as people in Western Europe, and they are oblivious to the fact that a run once in a while is recommended given the enormous amount of meat in their typical Balkan diet.</p>
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